![]() ![]() When looking at a potential RV, look hard at the cabinetry and floor coverings. I would say whatever roof you choose, get one with the least number of seams, and as Toyman ever so brilliantly pointed out, get one that that cap wraps down over the sides. I always felt that the increased sealing you get from rubber is more than offset by the once-a-year walking around on the roof and the extra maintenance. Then for the rest of the year, the slowly-oxidizing rubber drips gray streaks all down the sides of your RV. The UV damages the rubber, so you have to get up there and scrub it with a special cleaner, then treat it to protect it. I think the non-running 4 wheeler was the better part of that deal. That sounds like a whopper deal, but the land is kinda useless. Last summer I decided to upgrade so I bought a 5th wheel to park there and I was able to trade my camper for 8 acres of land and a used 4-wheeler. I never covered it, babied it, or did anything other than winterize and kept some paraformaldehyde packets opened for the winter. Then around 2004 I took it to a lake and parked it. I bought it in 2002 for $9800 and towed it cross country twice. My 1992 Holiday Rambler TT spent the first 10 years of its life owned by a couple who parked it near a lake. The nice thing is, if you get a leak (and all RVs will leak eventually), you know that the structure of the RV can't rot if it's aluminum. The bolt that held the lower awning arm into the skin got a leak and I had a soft spot in the floor which was easily fixed. Many people shy away because of the two-piece aluminum roof, but it has a single seam down the center with a slight curve to the roof. By then the wood is soaked, started to rot, will continue to rot, and grow all kinds of fungi. If a wooden-stick built RV gets a leak, it could be ages until you find it. ![]() They use an aluminum skin with aluminum studs and laminated/bonded foam as insulation and structure. This is the era where they had really perfected RVs and before Monaco bought the company (1999 I think). If I were buying a 90s Class A, I would get an Alumalite/Holiday Rambler every day of the week and twice on Sunday. Most tire companies say they need replacement between 6 and 10 years regardless of tread wear or how they look. Tires on RVs are rarely wore out but need replacement due to UV damage, checking or old age. Whatever you do make sure you inspect any unit carefully including all the systems, electrical, plumbing, HVAC, etc. ![]() As others have said I would look for reputable brand names like Newmar, Tiffin and some of those named above. Also many motorhomes were built for the casual user for a couple weeks of vacation and a few weekends a year so the materials used and appliances were often the cheapest available to make the units affordable. In older motorhomes these leaks contribute to wood rot and structural problems. The biggest single problem in RVs of any kind are leaks. Newer motorhome are built much better then those in the past which contained a lot of wood. Not trying to discourage you but I don't think you are going to find a motorhome in your budget that won't require a good deal of work. ![]()
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